Estill Springs Hotel
History
"Estill Springs was known in the early settlement of this area as Sweet Springs. Located a half mile from Irvine, it was a famous summer resort for nearly eighty years.
The hotel, erected in 1845, was the oldest summer resort in the state. The register carried names of the most fashionable and distinguished persons of Kentucky and the East for many generations. Centuries before the early settlers invaded the grounds, this was the favorite rendezvous and habitat of the Shawnee Indians. It was not only a well-supplied hunting ground for the tribe, but also a garden spot where springs burst forth with waters believed to possess magical power.
A well-trodden buffalo trace opened up the way for early explorers who paused on their journey to drink of the “sweet water.” buffalo wallow can still be seen in Sweet Lick Creek nearby.
News of adequate water supply traveled fast in early pioneer days. Soon enterprising promoters exploited the Indian legend of health benefits to be derived from the water of the free-flowing springs. The first record of the springs is said to have been embraced in a journal kept by a Frenchman, who, with a party of Indians in 1765, marched from Detroit to Mobile, Alabama. Sweet Springs was also mentioned by the explorer, McAfee, who gave a good description of the region when he wrote in his journal of a little lick at some sweet springs in a white oak flat at the foot of a little mountain. Daniel Boone and John Boyle, while on a hunting tour through this region in June 1775, camped at the Springs.
The hotel grounds, consisting of seven hundred acres and comprised of woodlands, mountain peaks and tangled wilderness of tress and shrubs, was surveyed and claimed by Gen. Green Clay, and remained his until his death. The hotel was built by William Chiles, who came to this county from Montgomery County. At that time there was a group of farm buildings on the site. He erected the large rambling hotel of lumber cut on the land and bricks which went into the foundation also were made on the spot. Chiles built the present spring house, which originally only had a dirt floor and flagstones, but was later concreted by H.L. Leete in preparation for the 1908 Centennial celebration of Estill County. Prior to the coming of Mr. Chiles, a one-story log building with wings on each end had been erected by the former owner. Chiles built the main hotel; on the first floor were three large parlors with six bedrooms above. The main dining room was 30’ by 100’. He added a two-story section with 14 rooms on each floor and on the north end a single story structure of twenty rooms, which he called Ashland Row, for his friend, Henry Clay, of whom he was very fond. In addition, Chiles built a number of two-room cottages to accommodate guests seeking solitude.
During this important period in the history of the county from a social and commercial standpoint (when Estill County was a great iron-producing and manufacturing county, from the year 1830 to about the close of the war between the states) the hotel was enlarged to include 112 rooms, galleries, corridors, and lounging decks. Also, during the “Gay Nineties,” a 45’ by 100’ ballroom, the largest in the state at that period, was erected on the east end by J.M. Thomas, owner at that time. There were two fine bowling alleys, tennis courts, billiards and many other sports for the pleasure of the guests. Horseback riding was one of the favorite pastimes. An excellent orchestra was kept throughout the season, giving afternoon concerts and furnishing delightful concerts and music for the ballroom.
It is said that there was not in the South - certainly not in Kentucky - any other summer resort so popular as Estill Springs. Combining the modern with the careless freedom and hospitality of the olden times, it had an atmosphere of its own. The table was supplied from its own great gardens, filled with every variety of vegetables, with its own lambs, chickens, and other meats killed on the place and prepared by old-fashioned cooks, while a dozen Jersey cows furnished wholesome milk and butter.
‘Twas to this cool retreat that the wealthy planters of the south made annual pilgrimages with great retinues of servants, horses and carriages to spend the long summer months. ‘Twas here the fair daughters and noble sons of the Old Southland danced the minuet, or strolled beneath its shady oaks. It was frequented by men notable in their day - many of national reputation.
A favorite among the stories of the blithesome days of that period, is the one which tells of how Henry Clay (1777-1852) a frequent visitor at the resort, “stood pat” in many a game of “draw” under the giant oaks that adorned the grounds. He must have created quite a stir when he stepped from his ornate coach, while his driver and footman unloaded his luggage, which included a deerskin covered trunk and a leather hat box containing his high silk hat. His visit was considered an extra honor paid the resort by one of Kentucky’s greatest statesman.
Other noted men who were guests at the Springs were Gov. William Owsley, John J. Crittenden, Judge Daniel Breck and noted statesmen, John C. Breckinridge.
The summer before the hotel burned during the annual reunion of Morgan’s Men, the hotel numbered among its guests Clifton Rhodes Breckinridge, son of John C. Breckinridge, a former member of congress from Arkansas, who was once United States minister to Russia, and Beriah Magoffin Jr., son of Beriah Magoffin, “War Governor” of Kentucky. The hotel was patronized especially by conventions of the circuit clerks, State Bar Association, Morgan’s Men, Fox Hunters Associations, and Kentucky Bankers Association.
The famed “Old Infantry Volunteers” was organized by Col. Sidney M. Barnes September 14, 1861, at Estill Springs while Col. Barnes owned the property.
Judge James B. White, one of Morgan’s Men, later a member of Congress and a leading member of the bar, was influential in having the annual reunion of Morgan’s Confederate Veterans hold their reunion at Estill Springs.
Other attractions which the resort afforded were “Lovers Path,” which led through the woodland across a rustic bridge to the Chalybeate Spring, some distance from the hotel. This water was perfectly translucent, but heavily impregnated with iron. It was considered to be nature’s tonic, distilled in her own laboratory, and a great invigorator and appetizer. A charming rustic summer house was built over the spring. “Devil’s Chair,” of rock formation, and the “Old Proposition Log” were added attractions. For invalids who could not walk to the spring, this water was kept at the hotel.
Ownership of the property changed hands many times. The land embraced in the whole of the tract remained the property of Gen. Green Clay until his death. Clay willed the property to his two sons, S.B. and B.J. Clay. The Clays sold to Isaac Mize, an attorney at law.
By successive ownership it was possessed by James Black, Cleveland Black (1844), William and John Chiles (1846), Col. Sidney M. Barnes, Spencer Noble, Lyon Douglas, William H. Lilly, Capt. J.M. (Sonny) Thomas, and Harvey Riddell, Riddell divided a portion of the land into building lots and sold them at auction, known today as Sweet Springs Addition. He also sold a portion of the land around Sweet Lick Knob, known as Estill Heights.
The hotel was destroyed by fire on December 14, 1924. The blaze, the cause of which was undetermined, originated in the servant’s quarters on the second floor. Fire departments of Irvine and Ravenna were unable to check the flames because their hose could not reach the building. However, two cottages near the building were saved.
At the time of the fire the hotel was operated by Mr. and Mrs. Coleman Benton. The hotel was not rebuilt. The property was sold to Dr. O.F. Hume, who operated the River View Hospital in Irvine. Dr. Hume sold the property to the late Mrs. Lena Wallace, an early merchant in Irvine, who made the property into a show place by building a beautiful colonial home, by improving the grounds, and investing in valuable antiques from near and far. Today Miss Margaret White makes her home there. Although privately owned, friends of Miss White are welcome to carry water from the springs, which have never been known to go dry." - "History of Estill County," Hallie Tipton-Johnstone, 1974.
"The Famous Estill Springs
Estill Springs is located at Irvine, Ky., 130 miles south of Cincinnati, 130 miles east of Louisville, and 20 miles from Richmond, on the L. & A. R. R .and the Kentucky River, in the Kentucky mountains. Morning trains out of Louisville via Louisville Southern, and out of Cincinnati via the-Q. & C. reach the Springs to regular 1 o'clock dinner. Tourist rates on all railroads during the season. Hotel only five minutes' walk from the depot. Regular bus and baggage wagon meet all trains. Trains daily except Sunday.
The buildings at Estill are situated in a magnificent woodland, which the hand of man has only touched to preserve its natural beauty. The hotel is a model of comfort and cleanliness. Good beds, good fare and polite service are the hobbies of the management. Bath rooms supplied with porcelain-lined tubs, in which hot and cold sulphur baths may be taken, are a valuable feature. The wide verandas and large parlors afford pleasant lounging places.
It is hard to tell which is most fascinating-to lie under the shade of the great oaks and walnuts in the midsummer heat, or to ride down the road in the fresh morning or the purpling twilight of the early summer or autumn days. At all times the atmosphere is one of rest and peace. The worn business man can dream as he will, undisturbed, while the young folks can bowl, climb mountains, dance to the music of a fine band or stroll together along shady paths "made, for two." The White Sulphur, or Sweet Springs, are located within a few feet of the hotel. This water acts on the skin, liver and kidneys. (See analysis on last page), It is very light on the stomach, and removes all impurities from the system. It is a great 'remedy for indigestion. To drink too much seems impossible. The sulphur baths are valuable and refreshing. There is a fine bowling alley, and this popular sport is much enjoyed by the guests. One of the attractions of Estill Springs is its location on the Kentucky River, which runs around the premises, and affords boating and fishing, while it heightens the effect of the wonderful panorama spread before the eye on every side.
The hotel grounds consist of six hundred acres, comprising woodlands, mountain peaks, tangled wildernesses of trees and shrubs and rolling fields of arable land. Both a string orchestra and brass band will be maintained at the springs this summer, and first-class concerts may be expected. The hotel contains one of the largest and finest ball rooms in the State, 42x 100 feet. Rates-$2.00 and $2.50 per day; $10.00 and $12.50 per week. Season rate s made on application.
Address W. R. THOMAS, Manager, Irvine, Ky."
Excerpted from "Illustrated History of Richmond and Madison County, Supplement to Richmond Climax," May 24, 1905. P. 6. EKU Special Collections and Archives. Accessed July 9, 2021 at https://digitalcollections.eku.edu/files/show/83193.
